How leafhoppers create Taiwan’s most unique oolong
Some teas are remembered not only for their flavour but for their story. One of these is Dong Fang Mei Ren, literally “Beauty of the East.” This remarkable oolong tea from Taiwan first impressed the British trader John Dodd in the late nineteenth century, who then exported it to Europe.
Legend has it that a British queen was so charmed by this tea that she named it Oriental Beauty tea. Some stories mention Queen Victoria, others Queen Elizabeth II. Whether this really happened remains uncertain. What we do know: the name caught on and has since become known worldwide. The tea is also called champagne oolong, baihao oolong and white tip oolong. Yet this refined Taiwanese oolong has the most humble of origins.
A discovery by chance
In the village of Beipu in the Hsinchu region, a farmer noticed that his tea bushes had been attacked by leafhoppers during the hot summer months. Where other growers might have written off the harvest, he discovered something remarkable: the fragrance of the bitten leaves was extraordinarily sweet and complex.
He decided to process the leaves into tea. When he sold his product to a local tea merchant, the merchant was so impressed that he paid double the usual price. Back in his village, no one believed the story. His neighbours called the tea “Peng Feng Cha”: braggart’s tea. And so he laid the foundation for what would later become a national icon of craftsmanship and innovation.
How insects shape Oriental Beauty tea
What makes Oriental Beauty unique is the collaboration between people and nature. During the summer months, the small green leafhopper (Jacobiasca formosana) feeds on the sap of young tea leaves. In response, the plant produces aromatic compounds, including hotrienol. These compounds later create the characteristic floral and fruity notes. This is how the flavours of honey, ripe peach and muscat grape come to life.
The influence of the insects is also visible in the appearance of the leaves. The edges take on a lighter colour, and fine white hairs appear on the young tips. This is why the tea is also known as baihao oolong, literally “white tip oolong.” Dried leaves of high quality display five colours: black, brown, red, green and white.
Origin in the heart of Hsinchu
Production of Dong Fang Mei Ren takes place in the northwest of Taiwan, specifically in the villages of Beipu and Emei in Hsinchu County. The warm summers, high humidity and abundant sunshine here create the ideal climate for both tea leaves and leafhoppers.
While other regions in Taiwan produce famous oolongs, such as the high-altitude tea gardens of Alishan and Shanlin Xi, Oriental Beauty is closely tied to lower elevations. The tea bushes grow at heights between 300 and 800 metres, where the summer climate suits both leaves and insects.
This combination is crucial. Only during this season are the insects active, and without their contribution, the tea loses its defining character. To attract the leafhoppers, farmers use no pesticides. Oriental Beauty is therefore always a naturally grown tea.
Craft that requires patience
Producing Dong Fang Mei Ren demands considerable knowledge and care. Unlike most oolongs, where four or five leaves and a bud may be plucked, Oriental Beauty uses only the bud and two leaves.
After harvesting, the leaves first wither in the sun, then continue drying in a well-ventilated room. They are then gently shaken, which initiates oxidation. This oxidation reaches 60 to 70 percent, exceptionally high for an oolong and essential to its rich aroma.
Once the right oxidation point is reached, the leaves are fixed, rolled and finally dried. Because there is no roasting, the tea retains its clear amber colour and soft texture.
Only a small portion of the leaves meets this quality standard, which explains the limited yield and the rarity.
How does Oriental Beauty taste?
The amber infusion has an aroma of cherry blossom. In the flavour you will recognise muscat grape, honey, cherry and even a hint of pastry. It is a soft tea, without any bitterness. The aftertaste offers subtle hints of cinnamon and dried fruit.
With each subsequent infusion, a new layer of aroma unfolds.
How to brew Dong Fang Mei Ren
Dong Fang Mei Ren requires slightly lower temperatures than other oolongs. This lower temperature preserves the delicate character of the tea.
Heat water to 80 to 85°C. Add approximately 4 grams of tea leaves to your teapot or infuser. Make sure they have enough room to fully expand and unfurl. Pour the heated water over the leaves and let steep for 1 to 2 minutes for the first infusion.
Take the time to appreciate the rich aroma. With each subsequent infusion, extend the steeping time slightly to discover new layers and flavours from the leaves.
A tea with a story
Dong Fang Mei Ren is more than just a delicious tea. It is a symbol of boldness and the ability to find beauty in the unexpected. What began as a “failed” harvest grew into one of Taiwan’s most iconic teas.
The tea has earned recognition from collectors and tea enthusiasts around the world. It is a unique combination of terroir, climate, insects and human craftsmanship.
For those seeking depth in both flavour and story, Dong Fang Mei Ren offers an exceptional experience.
Discover Dong Fang Mei Ren
At Tea Kulture we offer this remarkable oolong from Taiwan, sourced directly from Wang Family Tea. A family business that has been producing tea in the mountains of Taiwan for four generations.
Discover Dong Fang Mei Ren.
